Showing posts with label Sewing and Cutting. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sewing and Cutting. Show all posts

How to Cut Kameez | Straight Kameez Cutting with Sleeves

Today we are going to describe you that how to do drafting and cutting of shirt / Kameez. On page-1 you can that we told the Kameez width formula that is : Original width if Daman + 2 inches = Cutting width. After taking the width remaining cloth will be for sleeves. On page 1 we shared a example measurement of width.
Now come to page-2 in page 2 you can see the marking method. In Marking step first you mark the bust line from already taken measurement from shirt, see picture-10 points no 41/42 for bust line guidance.

Method of Cutting Pakistani Kameez

In page 3 we are describing the Hips line  for more detail check image -11 points 41 to 44.
Now the step of border line for more information have a look image 11 and points number  41 to 45.
Now come to page 4 In which we told you how to mark neckline, In necklines girls has different choice for example some like deep neck other like wide neck so draw according your taste. A normal neck size will be 5.5 inch in length and 4.5 in width, check image 12 points 46  and 47 for neck marking information.

Here we tell you how to mark across back, Across back depth marking, bust marking and chest marking in page 5/6 .
Look page7 and 8 for waist marking, Hips marking, marking of back neckline length and marking of back neck width.

Page 9 and 10 guide you that how to mark sleeves length, top sleeves marking, Wrist marking and how to curve top arm side which stitch near arm hole.

Kameez Drafting Samples

Straight Kameez Draft with Sleeves

How to Cut Kameez on fabric
How a shirt look when you unfold it, here is front part of shirt and back part of shirt .

How to Measure Salwar Size -Lesson 3

Our third class based on measurement of Asian Salwar ( normal shalwar / Simple Salwar ).Here we are going to teach you how to take size from stitched salwar. Look on No 14 picture no 3 in which you can see we have taken salwar length measurement mentioned by numbers 23 and 24.
Now we go for salwar width or Ghair size that can be seen in image 3 with arrow 23 to 25.
At 16th stage we take waist to between legs measurement or Aasan size that has been mentioned with a arrow sign from point 25 to 26.
Here is last measurement of shalwar bottom width that call payencha or Ankle hole too.you can see ankle hole size from pints 24 to 27.
Now we tell you the formula of cutting size.
For length you have to apply this Formula: Exact length+3 inches= cutting length.
for example your salwar original length was 38 so after applying the formula it would be 41 inches so when you take fabric so much take a fabric that has 82 inches length for both side of salwar.
for more guidance please have a look on image-4 and Salwar length chart.
For salwar width please apply this formula : original width + 2 inches = cutting width.
for example your real width was 22 but after applying the formula it would be 24.
For more understanding please look at salwar width chart and image-5 points 30 and 31.
Here is formula for Waist to between legs : Original length + 2-1/2 inches = cutting length.
here we describe that if your real Aasan width was 16 then after adding two and a half inches it would be 18.5 inches.for more information please look at waist to b/w legs chart and image 6 points 32/33.
Now the turn of Bottom width formula  : salwar ankle hole width + 1 inch = cutting width.
for example real bottom width is 9 so adding 1 inch from formula it would become 10 inches.so at the time of cutting mark on 10 inches.for more instance please check image 7 points 34 and 35.
In our next class we will come with cutting of shirt or kameez so stay tune with clothing9.
If you missed our previous classes of Sewing and Cutting then please click the link.








How to Take Measurement From Stitched Shirt - Lesson-2

This is our second class of sewing and cutting, now we tell you how to take measurement from stitches kameez, because measurement has basic importance in sewing.If you take measurement correctly then best result come in cutting and you easily perfect design.Cutting totally depends on size chart so give full attention while measuring so it could be possible to cut fabric in right style.
We have 13 measuring point for a kameez of girl.Follow me to know about the measurements.
Here we are telling you to take measurement from already stitched shirt.
1- first we take neck to bust length, to know what is neck to bust measurement check picture-1 points 1 / 2.
2- Now take neck to waist length which is drawn from point 1 to 3.
3- Take neck to hip length as third step, it is mentioned through points 1-to-4.
4- As a fourth step we measure neck to border that can be seen in image 1 from point 1 to 7.
5- Now we take across back measurement that is mentioned with points 6 and 7.
6- Here we take chest measurement that can be find in image -2 with points 8 to 9.
7- As seventh step we take bust measurement that defined with points 10 and 11.
8- Now go for waist measurement for more guidance check image 2 point 12 and 13.
9- Time to take hip measurement for instance check points 14 and 15.
10- Now look for border measurement point 16 and 17 and take according it.
11- Now the turn of sleeves take sleeves length shown with points 18 and 19.
12- Second last measurement is wrist size shown with no 20.
13- Now last measurement of arm hole can be seen in picture-2 with no 21.
in next class we teach you how to take salwar measurement.If you missed Class-1 then jump in lesson 1 by clicking the link.For more instance we shared snaps have a look on it and we mentioned in urdu too. 














Basic Principles of Cutting in Dress Sewing - Lesson 1

Today we decided to add a new segment in Clothing9, in this segment we teach you how to stitch or sew your dresses yourself  - as eid event is coming and tailors stop taking more orders so now you prepare dress for eid, but before starting our first class we like to tell some basic rules of cutting because after measurement cutting is most important part of sewing, without learning the secrets of cutting we could not make a perfect dress.
Here are some tips / rules of cutting if you take in consideration then you will be able cut a dress like tailors.

1- If you are cutting fabric on floor then floor should be clean / plain and at least you should have 5ft by 2-1/2ft area or table of this size.if you see any stains on floor then mop the floor before cutting.

2- Scissor size should be at least 10", scissor should be clean and stainless.Scissor edges and tip should be sharp.
3- Check carefully that you drawn right measurement on fabric and fabric also set in correct way, never take less fabric then measurement
4- Before cutting the fabric properly iron the fabric to remove all wrinkles, use right temperature when ironing the fabric.
5- We know you people are in learning process so we suggest that you should mark all size on paper first and make graph or draft because we don't want that you waste the fabric just for the single mistake.
6- Always use tailor chalk for marking on fabric and never use ballpoints for marking.take some basic colors in tailor chalk like blue, white and red because these colors are visible on all shades of fabric.
7- When marking straight lines on fabric then you should use tri-square and for all other shapes use curve scale.
8- Always cut the fabric from where marks are drawn.
9- When you are cutting the fabric then take care that only right hand moving with scissor, do not move your body to right or left.
10- For less then 1 inch cutting use tip of scissor like button hole or side pocket.
11- For more then one inch cutting use the edges and take long stoke and move the scissor on lines drawn with chalk.
12- After cutting gather all the parts of dress and fold the fabric parts and put in a bag to avoid future problems.